France

Blog 1 Singapore to Paris 21 Aug 2012

Posted on August 21, 2012 by Tony Fuller

After our ten hour flight to Singapore we waited in the huge transit lounge with lots of the typical airport shops. We didn’t buy anything and just waited out the six hours wandering the mall area while also taking in a free movie. We could only handle half of the feature as it was the new Tom Cruise Mission Impossible Ghost Protocol. Very bad and cheesy. The next leg was a twelve hour endurance to Paris. We departed at midnight Singapore time (4am NZ time) feeling a tad tired but excited that Paris awaited. Donna slept well but I was awoken a couple of hours into the flight by a passenger one seat back and one row across having a heart attack. Over the intercom, the hostesses asked if there was a doctor on board to help this man. I was going to wake Doctor Donna but realised working at Southern Cross might not actually help. He was taken away to the first class sleeping area to recuperate. I never saw him again. Donna said in the morning it was probably just a lark to get upgraded and that I should do this on the return. Not a bad idea.
Finally we landed in Paris. It was the easiest customs transition ever. A man stamped our passports without even looking at us and then we picked up our bags and wandered out into the terminal. No customs, security or anything. Great stuff. We thought about catching the Metro train to Montmatre in the centre if Paris but discovered a taxi first and headed on our way.

Claude, a very stylish, black Frenchman met us at our apartment to greet us and give us our key. Donna was smitten. He pulled up on a speedy scooter in white trousers and t shirt looking very metropolitan Parisian. I love the apartment, I love the area, I love the weather and I love the icy Heineken I am currently drinking. The apartment overlooks the centre of Montmatre which is an arty tourist area next to the Sacré-Coeur Basilica. It’s like a large Chch Art Centre stretching for many blocks.

Pablo Picasso in Montmatre

The apartment has a very old spiral staircase heading up four floors to our suite on the top. It oozes culture and artisan lifestyle. The building must be from around the 1900’s, around the time Picasso lived in Montmatre, painting, boozing and living up the young artists social scene that prevailed at the time.

Alison is a nurse Donna worked with at Christchurch Cardiology and she is over here for a friends wedding in Ireland. We met up with her to sample some fine french wine (Euro$1.99 per bottle) and see the sights.

The view from the back window is of the Sacre Couer Bastilica and a small courtyard. There is a buzz of people continuously out the window and there are cafes and restaurants everywhere. It is what I thought Paris would be like but even older and craftier. It is only day one and we have only seen Montmatre so far. I’ll sign off now as I need another beer. It’s well into the 30’s (degrees) outside and the fat will be melting off me at a rapid rate. I have spoken much French to the locals and I’m getting the hang of it. They have all understood me and I have understood them. I am prefering to speak French where I can. Au revoir for now.

Categories: France, Paris, Singapore | 8 Comments

Blog 2 Paris in the Springtime with the warm wind in our hair (not Springtime and I’ve got no hair) 23 Aug 2012

Posted on August 20, 2012 by Tony Fuller

We ventured into the city on the Metro on our first night. We got lost. First on the Metro and then in the city. But then we turned a corner and saw a metal Meccano like object in the distance. The excitment of seeing the Eiffel Tower for the first time, between the buildings, was amazing. It sent a chill up my spine. It really felt like Paris then. We carried on not knowing where we were until an imposing entrance confronted us. It was the building that now houses the Louvre. It was closed for the night but we entered anyway. I stood in awe. It was the magestic palace in what now houses the Palais Royal Musee du Louvre. I couldn’t wait to see what was inside tomorrow. We slowly retraced our steps back to our apartment in Montmatre and slept well on the first balmy Parisian night.

Day two. We decided to book the open top bus tour around the city to get our bearings and check out more of the sights. It was a good choice. We got earphones to listen to a guided tour of all the landmarks and their history. And there are plenty of them. Deciding where to start was the hardest thing. The Louvre won out. We queued for 30 minutes with hundreds of other tourists then we entered the pyramid. Heading straight for the Mona Lisa gallery was predictable and we joined everybody else looking for La Gioconda. It took a while and it was a bit disappointing really because there were so many people doing the same. We got a quick photo and moved on.

We checked out the Egyptian section, and the French and Italian Sculptures which were amazing and then decided to leave the hoards to it. The complex is huge and you could easily spend two full days exploring. It must have been lunch time because Donna was hungry. The Place de la Concorde is next to the Louvre and we wandered along looking for food. McDonalds appeared and Donna weakened, allowing me to order a Beef Royale Nouveau, up sized with Coca Cola Zero. It didn’t help my diet but it was good.

Day three. Eiffel Tower. Early start to beat the crowds. Unfortunately everybody else had the same idea, and we were the crowds. It was a one hour queue to get to the ticket office. Then another queue to get to the first lift. And then another hour to get to the second lift to the top. It was cool, but by then we were over it and headed straight back down. We ticked that that one off. You can’t come to Paris without going up the Eiffel Tower.

Ooooh, lunch time again. We jumped back on the Tour Bus and climbed off on the Champs-Élysées. It is lined with boutique shops and lots of cafes. We picked one and ordered crepes, lattes and cocktails. Afterwards we shopped along this iconic stretch and then headed home on the Metro. We’re seasoned underground rail travellers already. The trains roll through every three or four minutes and lots of people climb on and off. It’s strange that nobody speaks or smiles to anyone. It is a regimented routine without emotion. Anyway we have joined the masses and migrate dutifully between venues.

Here’s a few more pics of our day. We’re visiting a travelling Dali Exhibition in Montmatre in the morning and then heading to the Musée d’Orsay. No doubt a cafe for lunch and then we will head out for dinner on our last day in Paris.

Categories: France, Paris | 8 Comments

Blog 3 Bye Bye Montmatre and Paris, Hello Puimisson in Beziers 25 Aug 2012

Posted on August 19, 2012 by Tony Fuller

Man, have we been busy. We’re sitting at our outdoor table on the roof top deck of our centuries old villa in Puimisson near Beziers in Provence. Surrounded by olive groves and grape vines, it’s a stark contrast to the bustle of Paris.

Yesterday was a triumph of art galleries, metro rail riding and a bit of kitch Paris shopping. Musee d’Orsey was so much better than the Louvre and the Eiffel Tower put together. No queues and amazing artworks. Van Gogh and Gauguin were highlights for me, Cézanne was pretty inspiring as well. Musee D’Orsay was the original railway station of Paris. It was going to be demmolished in 1970 but was saved at the last minute and turned into an art museum. The building itself is truly beautiful. This was Donna’s favourite.

I had sampled a taste of the art history of Paris now and I couldn’t stop. A Cubist retrospective at the Musee de Moderne Art was next. This was my favourite. There was no queue whatsoever, only a dozen people in the whole gallery. Early Picasso’s and Braque’s along with Legar and Delaunay works, to name a few. Seeing these up close was unreal.

Off to Musee Montmatre and the Dali Exhibition. Not as good as the previous experiences but interesting.

Then I was about to head off by myself to the climax. The Musee Picasso in the city centre when Donna spotted the the guide book that it is closed until 2013 for renovations. I will have to return at a later date to see that.

Donna, Alison and I headed off to the Troubadore Cafe for our final dinner in Paris. I ordered French Onion Soup for starter and Confit of Duck for main. I couldn’t fault either.

Afterwards we wandered the streets. It was Friday night and the town was a buzz. We stopped at the old piano factory (Le Bateau Lavoir) where Picasso

Les Demoiselles d’Avignon

and Braque had created their first Cubist works, including the famous Les Demoiselles d’Avignon.

It had burnt down in 1970, but the city has rebuilt it. The renovated building looks nice but the original building was a cold run down dive. Back to our apartment for a parting wine and then we started planning and packing for the next leg down to Provence. There is so much to see and do in Paris but it is tiring (for us oldies) trying to fit so much into a short space of time. Air France from Orly airport to Montpellier airport and then an attempt to direct our rental car to Puimisson.

A few more pics.

Dali’s dripping clock and me outside Mussee d’Orsey.

So here we are then, in Puimisson. This is so nice and so ancient. The streets are very narrow. The buildings are very old. It’s completely un-natural to drive on the right hand side of the road, but I managed with the help of a very patient Donna. We are settling down for the night and we are off to the beach tomorrow. I will post some pics of the outside of the building . It should be in a museum. So much character. Very nice inside as well, with all the mod cons including Sky TV and the internet.

Bonsoir then.

Some of the Puimisson village from our balcony on the roof

Categories: France, Paris | 4 Comments

Blog 4 The Sun in the South 27 Aug 2012

Posted on August 18, 2012 by Tony Fuller

Beachtime!

View from a reclined position

Donna pizza for lunch

Valres Plage beach

Mmmmmm Pina Colada

34 degrees

Rental car

Carpark

Our house

Our street

View from rooftop

View of neighbour through window

Categories: Beziers, France | 6 Comments

Blog 5 Heaven is a place on earth 28 Aug 2012

Posted on August 17, 2012 by Tony Fuller

Anton Philippé Fullér

At this moment in France, I am in heaven. We’re sitting on our deck, sipping Rosé, listening to Katie Melua. It’s 6.30 in the evening and it’s 31 degrees with a light breeze blowing. The only fault is that Donna has noticed I have my underwear on backwards. Life could be worse. (pics at a later date)

We have spent half our days taking in the history of the area and half relaxing in the abundant sun. Yesterday we travelled into Beziers city. They have a new mall (Polygone) with three levels of shopping which we spent three hours in. We then headed to Agde, an ancient town by the sea. It has a statue that was found in the bay that dates to 400BC. The city walls (built by the Phoenicians) are around the same age. It is mind blowing to see such things that are so old and ancient. We spent the rest of the day at Cape d’Agde bay, a small inlet with great swimming and a number of topless bathers!

Grapes in Puimisson

We awoke on Tuesday morning (France time) to light rain. I got up at 7am to see grape harvesters furiously picking the 2012 vintage and loading the grapes into huge containers that were uplifted to large trucks. As I had my early morning shower, Donna commented that the local bells were ringing and an anouncement was made on the local loud speakers (in French). I believe this was announcing the beginning of the wine harvest. Very exciting.

We headed off to Carcassonne, a medieval castle town toward the Pyrennean mountains. It was built in the 14th century. We discovered a large fortified city with a commercialised centre (within the walls) full of art centre like shops. We went on a tour of the dungeons highlighting the inquisition and methods of medievel torture. It was disturbing. After a bite to eat we headed home on the local highway. I must say they are good. Speed limit is 130kph with three lanes. We arrived home at 3pm and spent the afternoon on the deck in the sun.

Off to the birth place of Salvador Dali and the Dali museum in Figueres in Spain tomorrow. No doubt spend some time on the beach. The tan is going well. Apparently Spain is good for shoe shopping and Donna is looking forward to that. Take care in Christchurch. I hope it is not too cold over there.

Adiós

Categories: Beziers, France | 2 Comments

Blog 6 And yes, there’s something you can send back to me, Spanish boots of Spanish leather 30 Aug 2012

Posted on August 16, 2012 by Tony Fuller

Last night we awoke at 2am to someone taking photos with a flash in our bedroom. About every three seconds the room lit up, bright and white.

It was an electrical storm in the distance. There was no sound initially, but as the storm grew closer, the thunder hit as well. I sat on the balcony for about an hour taking it all in. I have never seen a light show like it.

The next morning it was still drizzling and we slept in for the first time on the holiday. The plan was to head into Spain. Hopefully we would leave the precipitation behind. It wasn’t to be. It rained all the way across the border and into Spain.

Pyrenees crossing the border into Spain

We turned off the motorway at Fiqueres, the birth town of Salvador Dali and home to his Musee of Art. Making our way to the city centre, the streets were narrow and very busy.

Figueres Acustica

It turned out that a large music festival was on in town and the queues into the Dali Musee were huge. We had a tasty leisurely lunch and in the meantime the line of people had almost doubled in size. Because of our allergies to queues we decided to leave this experience until our next visit and hit we the local shops instead. And they were actually quite good. A rain shower during our wanderings didn’t dampen our spirits. As 2pm approached however, most of the shops closed for a siesta. It was time to return to France.

We were back in Puimisson by 4pm and back on the deck with a new Rosé and nibbles. We went for an evening stroll and captured some of the many interesting doorways around the village.

Last day in this area tomorrow. The weather has come good again and we will spend much of the day at a local beach and then off to dinner at a local recommended winery.

Take heed, take heed of the western wind
Take heed of the stormy weather
And yes, there’s something you can send back to me
Spanish boots of Spanish leather. (Bob Dylan)

Categories: Avignon, France, Spain | 5 Comments

Blog 7 Palais du Papes 2 Sep 2012

Posted on August 15, 2012 by Tony Fuller

Bonjour. We are in Avignon, the city of the Popes. In the 14^th century it became the capital of the Christian world. We visited the Palace of the Popes today. It was amazing. We went on a tour of the huge castle-like, medieval building. It is incredible the amount of time and effort that must have gone into constructing it. We toured through the inner chambers where the different Popes (nine of them over the years) dined, met important people, and made decisions about the religious world. We went down into the crypts where some of them are buried, and up to the towers where Le Corps de Suisses soldiers stood on guard. Afterwards we wandered down to the Rhone River and sat on the banks admiring the Pont D’Avignon bridge which was built in the 12^th century. Mmmm, it was time for lunch and we headed for the many cafes and restaurants in the Place du Palais. We chose wisely and I enjoyed very nice fish and polenta (I ordered in French and thought I was asking for chicken!!) “Charlotte de Frais” followed for dessert (the best ever!!) Donna had steak and a trio of petit desserts with coffee washed down with another refreshing local Rose wine.

We arrived yesterday to a blustery, windy welcome, which continued on into the night. Pierre, a very gay local garcon, let us into the digs. It is a bit more basic than the lovely villa in Puimisson, but is clean and tidy. But no internet! Donna had asked for it when we booked and was informed that there was . . . yes . . . but down the street at the Subway Sandwich bar! Doh. Never mind, we will survive. Avignon is surrounded by large, ancient walls or ramparts, which encircle the whole city. Our apartment is just inside the Porte Sainte-Lazare entrance and it is close to the University, which in old times was the Saint Marthe Hospice. Again, it is very beautiful. There are a lot of young people in our area and most of the other residents in our apartment are students.

We drove from Puimisson to Avignon via Saint Guillam de Desert, a medieval village in the hills and up a narrow gorge. It was well worth the detour. Again, beautiful old buildings and an ancient church and monastery filled the landscape. We arrived at midday and just as we explored the church, six women in monks attire (white cloaks with hoods) were making their way to the altar. They sang heavenly prayers which echoed around the large chapel for about 20 minutes. Donna and I were transfixed and remained there until they finished. Donna lit a candle for Ariva and said a prayer. Lunch followed and we continued on our way.

The previous day had been beach time. Portiragnes and Serignon were the most recommended beaches in the area and they didn’t disappoint. Afterwards we drove into Magalas for dinner for our last night in the Beziers area. We will miss it.

I’ll continue on now. We have lots to see and do here, but we must tether our sightseeing with plenty of relaxation as well. Oh it’s tough.

Thanks for the Fathers’ Day wishes boys. Au revoir for now.

Categories: Avignon, France | 7 Comments

Blog 8 Crème de Cassis 5 Sep 2012

Posted on August 14, 2012 by Tony Fuller

The heat has returned . . . and so have we . . . to Avignon from Cassis, a port on the Mediterranean coast.

We left early this morning and hit the motorway doing 130kph all the way to the sea. It is about an hour and a half away and was worth the trip. I ©googled “Good Beaches near Avignon” and it told me that Cassis was the nicest. It didn’t lie.

It was so good that everyone has to pay a €1.10 toll to drive down the hill to the beach to experience it. We thought that was a bit strange, but it was even stranger when we departed because you also have to pay €1.10 to leave!!

Anyway the day was tanning and swimming heaven. We splashed out and hired sun lounges, and were then waited on hand and foot. After more Rosé wines, tasty Bruschetta sandwiches and Coke Lights, we were very satisfied with our day. So much so that we are tempted to return to the sea in a couple of days and stay there before we head to Plan de la Tour and St Tropez. We have now been to the internet café and tried to book a nice room on the coast for Thursday and Friday (waiting to hear back). Although Avignon is nice, we prefer the quiet and tranquillity of the smaller villages.

The previous day we checked out the towns south of Avignon. We started with Arles which was originally a Greek colony until Julius Caesar captured it and gave it to the veteran soldiers of his Legions. It has an ancient amphitheatre built around 90AD and could once hold 20,000 spectators. It is currently in the process of being renovated and now has modern seating for bull fights, which Arles is known for. Over the last 2000 years the city has been ravaged and rebuilt many times . We spent about three hours, walking, eating and marvelling at its buildings and monuments. There is a notorious old structure which held thousands of Jews before they were sent to the concentration camps during the Second World War. It has very old, solid doors concealing dark, foreboding cellars that you could peer into. It was a scary and sad place.

There is also a hospice that Vincent Van Gogh previously stayed at and he famously painted (Le Jardin de Hopital d’Arles). Donna and I visited it. It is now frequented by local artisans and has student accommodation.

Le Jardin de l’Hopital d’Arles

Heading back to Avignon we stopped at St Remy de Provence, a small Merivale-like village with great little shops.

The many restaurants and cafes were filled with affluent, older people and the shopping was very expensive. We walked around the streets and alley ways and then continued back to the big city.

St Remy de Provence

To be mentioned. Donna has visited thousands of shoe shops since Paris (there are so many). She made her first shoe purchase in Arles! She has to be restrained or she will need another suitcase to bring them all home. She is very pleased with herself and will continue to marvel at the natural shoe wonders of France.

Signing off again. Possibly up to Chateau Neuf-de-Pape tomorrow (just north of Avignon). It is famous for its great wines and restaurants. Thinking of you all back home. Salut!

Our street in Avignon in the evening

Donna beside an old fountain in Arles

Categories: Avignon, France | 1 Comment

Blog 9 I must go down to the sea again, to the lonely sea and sky 6 Sep 2012

Posted on August 13, 2012 by Tony Fuller

You must be tiring of our exploits by now, but I will continue as a record of our fun and adventure. If nothing else it seems to make the time last longer. I look back at some of the older posts and reminisce already.

Tony saying goodbye from the window in Avignon

Donna saying goodbye in Avignon

We left Avignon this morning heading for La Ciotat. It’s the next seaport along from Cassis. Its claim to fame is that Pétanque was invented here. It’s less commercialised than Cassis and there are lots of boats.

Upon arrival we headed for the beach. The one we chose was Lumiéres Plage which was controversial last year when it became the first beach in France to be smoke free. A shallow tranquil bay with hot sun and topless bathers of all shapes and ages entertained us until lunch beaconed at 2.30pm. Donna had her first mussel dish while I had a healthy salad.

Lumineres Plage

La Ciotat boats

mmmm Mussels, tasty but not as good as at home!!

Donna relaxing in the Park Suite in La Ciotat

New wine knife

Checking into our accommodation was next. We chose a modern and new apartment complex on the waterfront, the Park Suites. It is nice and new and trendy. Now, at 7pm at night, the sun is shining strongly and it must be close to 30 degrees outside. I have just been for a stroll to buy a wine knife, because there wasn’t one in our unit. Bottles of Rosé were begging to be opened.

Strolling in La Ciotat

The shops here seem very good value. We shall explore further tomorrow.

I won’t bore you more with small talk. I will finish my Rosé and my juicy, sweet, French nectarine and sign off again.

Bonsoir.

My boat’s come in!!

The local church in La Ciotat

Categories: France, La Ciotat | 3 Comments

Blog 10 Stop searching. Paradise is found 8 Sep 2012

Posted on August 12, 2012 by Tony Fuller

Restanques de Lion, Plan de la Tour

I believe I have peaked. Plan de la Tour and the villa we are going to be living in for the next 7 days are idyllic. If there is a paradise, this is it. Peaceful, warm and serene, and with a tepid, soothing horizon pool. I don’t think we will move from here for the next week. We loaded up with provisions from the local Carrefour (supermarket) in St Maxime and we will live by the pool reading, swimming and drinking wine all day, every day.

Justin Fuller the man

We left La Ciotat behind after watching Justin and the Canterbury Red Devils win the National Senior Club Championship against the Southern Stampede in Queenstown. The game was streamed live and was very tense. Drawn 5-5 after full time, 5 minutes overtime was played with no further score. Canterbury took the goal shootout 2-0. Well done Justin and the team.

Pool house

Plan de la Tour is a beautiful village. We stopped for lunch when we arrived. Our villa has more than met our expectations. It’s up a valley and up the hill. The house is surrounded by olive groves and fig trees. It is immaculately landscaped and set up for relaxation with no neighbours in sight.

Nibbles

I have posted a few pics from our first few hours here. We have just been watching todays stage of the Vuelta a España on TV. Go Contador.

Again well done the Devils.

Au revoir

Canterbury Red Devils

Restanques de Lion

Donna assuming the position

Categories: France, Plan de la Tour | 5 Comments

Blog 11 Les Restanques des Lions 10 Sep 2012

Posted on August 11, 2012 by Tony Fuller

Breakfast yummy strawberry tarts!!

Les Restanques des Lion

Bonjour.

Not much to report on other than that we have spent most of the last two days beside the pool reading and relaxing. The weather has been perfect, in the 30 degrees each day.

So Johnny Depp owns a villa in Plan de la Tour. A helicopter has buzzed us each day, ferrying Johnny to his abode I presume. Or otherwise it’s the paparazzi trying to take pics of him or us.

Johnny Depp’s villa in Plan de la Tour

Plan de la Tour roads

We did go for a drive this morning. I googled bike shops in the area and found one 20 km away in Vidauan. The roads here are crazy and narrow. They are only just wide enough for one car, winding through hills and dales. We ventured forth at 10-20kph waiting for a big truck to come around a blind corner. We were passed by cyclists and a herd of cows on our slow crawl to Vidauan (where the Pro Velo bike shop is).

We discovered all the shops were closed. Either it was a public holiday or a very long siesta time. We gave up and returned to Plan de la Tour, only stopping to refill the wine supply.

Working on the tan

Tony in the pool

The pool and the weather cannot be beaten anyway. Lots of relaxing and reading. We are about to have dinner (fillet steak and dauphinoise potatoes with fresh mango) . . . and a Rosé to wash it down.

Dinner

We will check out Sainte Maxime and its beaches tomorrow, and catch the ferry to St Tropez on Thursday. I must say we are loving it here.

Bonsoir

Breakfast

Lovin’ the pool

mmmm strawberrys

Categories: France, Plan de la Tour | 5 Comments

Blog 12 The French Connection 13 Sep 2012

Posted on August 10, 2012 by Tony Fuller

No!!! I don’t want to go!!!

I think I may not leave. The owner of Restanques des Lions (Jilly) may find me in the bushes in two weeks’ time, still soaking up the sun and the lifestyle. I guess I will actually have to return home and to reality soon.

St Tropez famous night club (I’m a bit early)

We ventured into St Tropez (on Tuesday). It was market day and very busy. We didn’t stay long and returned by ferry to Sainte Maxime in time for a tasty lunch in a local café. Donna had salmon and I had a very yummy omelette.

Wednesday was a windy but warm day. We revisited the local Carrefour supermarket to replenish food and wine supplies and headed back home to the pool. It was cloudy and very windy, and we ended up inside reading and having a quiet time.

On the ferry back to Sainte Maxime

Thursday was beautiful. La Plan de la Tour and Sainte Maxime had market days and we visited both. Sainte Maxime is my most favourite town in all of France so far. It is the right combination of historic French seaside town and quaint shops. We made a couple of purchases and headed back to the villa to relax again in perfect conditions (no clouds and warm sun).

Tony and Donna

Allied landing at Sainte Maxime

St Maxime was the landing spot for the allied attack on France (to liberate it from the Germans in WW2). We have seen some buildings in Vidauban that have been preserved in their original state from the Allied invasion. The windows and walls have bullet holes and you can feel the door to door battle that ensued to reclaim France from the Axis forces.

Le Plan de la Tour

Sidi MTB shoes

It is our last full day in France tomorrow. I will miss the place. Rome will be exciting, with the Colosseum and the Vatican. And then Singapore for a couple of days of shopping. I have been looking for bike shops here as I need a new pair of MTB shoes. I haven’t found one to date, so I ordered some new Sidi’s from wiggle.co.uk last night. They should be delivered when I get home. The McLeans Six Hour race waits in October and I’m looking forward to it.

Ah, did I mention the pool.

Final day by the pool. We will make the most of it. We reserved a table at the flashiest restaurant in Plan de la Tour tomorrow night for a superb meal for our last night in France (until we return). Signing off from heaven.

Cheers

Sainte Maxime

Mmmmm salmon.

Categories: France, Plan de la Tour | 8 Comments